Coleslaw: the cabbage salad that tells New York’s origins

The Origins of Coleslaw

• Coleslaw is a cabbage salad that’s everywhere in New York. But before you start cooking, here’s the story behind this dish. Dutch settlers brought “koolsla” to North America when they arrived in 1626 to build New Amsterdam. They soon began growing white cabbage along the Hudson River, and “koolsla” became one of their favorite dishes. The word “kool” means “cabbage” and “sla” means “salad.”
• When the British conquered the Dutch colony in 1674, New Amsterdam became New York—but koolsla stayed. The word was anglicized to become “coleslaw” (pronounced ko-le-slo).
• Today, coleslaw is a staple across New York. You’ll find it on the menus of delis, diners, and bagel shops. The cabbage salad typically accompanies pastrami sandwiches and matzah ball soup, as well as burgers.

Ingredients (Serves 4)

• Half a head of white cabbage (about 250 g / 8.8 oz).
• One carrot.
• One small shallot or a piece of onion, depending on your preference.
• 30 ml (1 fl oz) milk.
• 30 ml (1 fl oz) buttermilk.
• 60 g (2.1 oz) mayonnaise.
• One tablespoon white vinegar.
• One tablespoon lemon juice.
• 25 g sugar.
• Salt.
• Pepper.
• Caraway seeds (optional).

Tip: About the Buttermilk

• Look for buttermilk sweetened with grape sugar at the store—it’s delicious. For a less sweet version, use plain buttermilk instead.

Tip: About the Mayonnaise

• The traditional recipe calls for 60 ml (2.1 oz) of mayonnaise. I recommend making it yourself—it’s quick and tastes so much better. If you prefer to buy it, choose a jarred mayonnaise made with eggs and without lemon.

How to Make Coleslaw

• 1/ Slice the cabbage thinly.
• 2/ Slice the carrot thinly.
• 3/ Slice the shallot thinly. If using onion instead, prepare about one tablespoon.
• 4/ Combine the cabbage, carrot, and shallot or onion in a large bowl.
• 5/ Make mayonnaise with one egg yolk, a teaspoon of mustard, one tablespoon of white vinegar, and sunflower oil.
• 6/ Prepare the coleslaw dressing by mixing the mayonnaise, milk, buttermilk, white vinegar, lemon juice, sugar, salt, and pepper.
• 7/ Pour the dressing over the sliced vegetables and mix well.
• 8/ Cover the bowl and refrigerate for several hours.
• 9/ Just before serving, sprinkle a few caraway seeds on top if you like. Delicious!
• 10/ Serve with a crisp pickle. In New York, they’re called “pickles”! Enjoy!

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